Journey Insights

There’s a special kind of magic to a Thursday night when you’re travelling. It’s not quite the weekend, but it’s close enough that you can taste it. The usual rules feel suspended. In a place as enchanting as Ella, a hillside town in Sri Lanka that feels like it’s been plucked from a storybook, that Thursday feeling is amplified. And last week, I found the epicentre of that pre-weekend buzz: Cafe One Love.

Ella, by day, is a tranquil haven of tea plantations, epic hikes up Little Adam's Peak, and lazy afternoons watching clouds drift through the valley. But as dusk settles, a different energy trickles through its main street. You hear the distant thump of a bassline, the chatter and laughter spilling out of bars. Drawn by an irresistible beat and the glow of fairy lights, my mate and I found ourselves standing before a multi-story wooden structure, pulsating with life. A simple sign confirmed it. This was the place.

Stepping into the Vibe

Walking into Cafe One Love isn't like walking into a regular bar. It feels more like gate-crashing the best house party you've ever been to. The place is a brilliant, sprawling labyrinth of good times, built upwards on the side of the hill. The ground floor is a hive of activity, with the bar at its heart and people mingling, but the real charm reveals itself as you explore.

We headed up a narrow staircase and found a chill-out zone, with beanbags strewn across different levels, offering pockets of privacy and perfect perches for people-watching. Groups of travellers were huddled together, sharing stories over shisha pipes, their faces illuminated by the soft lights. It had a relaxed, bohemian feel, but you could still feel the bass vibrating through the floorboards from the main dance floor below. The air was thick with a sweet, woody scent and the promise of a memorable night. We were in.

Cocktails and Bites

Before committing to the dance floor, a drink was in order. A proper drink. We squeezed our way to the bar, a bustling hub of activity where the staff moved with an easy, rhythmic efficiency.

The Cocktail Conundrum

My eyes scanned the drinks list, a solid collection of classics and local twists that felt both familiar and exciting. It’s always a good sign when a menu is simple and confident.

• Arrack Attack: Arrack, Lime, Honey, Ginger Beer
• Arrack Coke: Arrack, Coke
• Cuba Libre: Rum, Lime, Coke
• Daiquiri: Rum, Syrup, Lime Juice
• Cosmopolitan: Vodka, Triple Sec, Cranberry Juice, Lime Juice
• Moscow Mule: Vodka, Ginger Beer, Lime, Honey
• Pina Colada: Rum, Pineapple, Coconut Cream

Being in Sri Lanka, it felt criminal not to start with the local spirit. I opted for the ‘Arrack Attack’. What a choice. It arrived looking deceptively innocent, but that first sip was a revelation. The coconut-based arrack has a unique character that’s hard to pin down – slightly smoky, slightly sweet – and it was perfectly balanced by the sharp tang of lime and the sweet warmth of honey. The spicy kick of the ginger beer at the end just tied it all together. It was refreshing and dangerously drinkable. My friend went for a classic ‘Moscow Mule’, and the sharp, fiery ginger and lime combo was exactly what was needed to sharpen the senses.

More Than Just Nibbles

After a couple of those Arrack Attacks, some food was definitely in order. The dancing had worked up an appetite, and our stomachs were rumbling. We weren't after a full-on meal, just something to soak up the booze and keep us going. We spotted ‘Chicken Nuggets’ on the menu, and honestly, it sounded like the perfect party food.

Let me be clear, these were not the sad, uniform shapes you get from a frozen bag back home. These were proper, honest-to-goodness chunks of chicken. The menu described them perfectly: “Juicy pieces of chicken, battered and fried, served with tartar sauce.” They arrived steaming hot, the batter golden and incredibly crispy, giving way to chicken that was genuinely tender and moist. The creamy, tangy tartar sauce was the ideal companion. We demolished the plate in minutes, huddled on a couple of floor cushions, feeling utterly sorted.

Losing Yourself to the Music

With cocktails in hand and our hunger satisfied, it was time to dive into the main event. We headed down to the dedicated dance floor, a space where the energy was electric. The DJ, perched in a corner, was a master of his craft. He wasn't just playing a pre-made set; he was reading the crowd, weaving a seamless tapestry of sound that had everyone hooked.

The music was a brilliant, infectious blend of reggae, dancehall, and house beats – genres that seem to perfectly capture the sun-drenched, laid-back-yet-ready-to-party spirit of Sri Lanka. The bass was deep and resonant, the kind you feel in your chest, compelling you to move.

And everyone was moving.

It was a beautiful, chaotic mix of people. Backpackers from Germany, surfers from Australia, couples from France, and a healthy contingent of locals who were clearly regulars, all united on that wooden floor. There were no inhibitions here, no self-consciousness. People were grinning, sweating, and losing themselves completely in the rhythm. I found myself dancing next to a guy from Colombo who taught me a few local moves, laughing as I tried (and failed) to copy him. It didn’t matter. We were all just part of this temporary, joyful community, brought together by a great tune in a magical place.

The night blurred into a wonderful montage of clinking glasses, shared laughter with new friends, and the feeling of the warm Sri Lankan air on my skin as I stepped outside for a moment’s breath. Cafe One Love managed to be everything at once: a chilled-out lounge, a lively pub, and a full-blown nightclub.

If you ever find yourself in Ella with that Thursday feeling creeping in, that itch for a night that feels like the start of an adventure, don’t even think about it. Follow the music. I can almost guarantee it will lead you to the brilliant, vibrant, and utterly unforgettable party at Cafe One Love. Just make sure you try the Arrack Attack.