Journey Insights

I’d always heard that Ella was the sleepy, emerald heart of Sri Lanka’s hill country. A place for breath-taking train rides, misty mountain hikes, and sipping tea while watching the clouds roll in. And for the most part, it is. But every so often, a place throws you a curveball, a completely unexpected night that ends up defining your visit. For me, that curveball was a Wednesday night at Cafe One Love.

I was wandering back towards my guesthouse after a day chasing waterfall, the cool mountain air a welcome relief. My plan was simple: a quick bite, a read of my book, and an early night. But as I walked down the main drag, a rhythmic bassline started to sneak through the gentle hum of the town. It was a proper thumping beat, the kind that vibrates right through the soles of your flip-flops. Intrigued, I followed the sound, and it led me to a warm, inviting glow spilling out of Cafe One Love. Peeking inside, I saw a place that was absolutely buzzing. My plans for an early night vanished instantly.

Finding the Vibe

Stepping into Cafe One Love was like stepping into a different world. The air was thick with the scent of shisha, fresh mint, and something sweet and fruity. The decor was a chilled-out, bohemian dream – low-slung wooden tables, comfy cushions scattered on the floor, and colourful reggae flags draped alongside fairy lights. It wasn’t flashy or polished; it was real, lived-in, and incredibly welcoming.

The place was a brilliant mix of people. Backpackers with sun-kissed skin and stories in their eyes were swapping tales over drinks, locals were laughing with the staff, and a handful of couples were tucked away in cosy corners. The energy was electric but relaxed, a sort of shared understanding that we’d all stumbled upon the best place to be on a Wednesday night. There was no pretension, no dress code, just a collective desire to have a good time. I knew I had to stay.

A Mission for a Mojito

First things first, I needed a drink. I squeezed my way to the bar, which seemed to be the vibrant, beating heart of the whole operation. My eyes landed on a simple, chalked-up menu that immediately made me smile. It was a dedicated Mojito list. This was my kind of place.

• Mojito: Rum, Lime, Mint, Sugar
• Mango Mojito: Rum, Lime, Mango, Mint, Sugar
• Passionfruit Mojito: Rum, Lime, Passionfruit, Mint, Sugar
• Pineapple Mojito: Rum, Lime, Pineapple, Mint, Sugar
• Watermelon Mojito: Rum, Lime, Watermelon, Mint, Sugar

In the Sri Lankan heat, a mojito is always a good idea, but a Passionfruit Mojito? That felt like a no-brainer. I watched the bartender expertly muddle the fresh mint and sugar, add a generous glug of rum, and then mix in the tangy, golden passionfruit puree. He handed it to me with a smile, the glass beaded with condensation. It was sublime. Sharp, sweet, zingy, and with just the right kick of rum to loosen up the muscles from a day of hiking. It tasted like a tropical holiday in a glass and was the perfect fuel to get the evening started.

The Perfect Party Food

As the DJ seamlessly blended Bob Marley into some deep house, my stomach reminded me that I’d skipped a proper dinner. I wasn’t after anything heavy, just something to keep me going. I snagged a food menu and my eyes immediately caught the “Tacos Chicken.” It sounded perfect.

When it arrived, it was exactly what I needed. It wasn't some huge, messy affair. Instead, it was two small, soft tortillas, generously filled with seasoned chicken and crisp vegetables. A lovely layer of melted cheese was draped over the top, and it was served with a side of cool, creamy yoghurt sauce. It was the ultimate party food – easy to handle, packed with flavour, and the perfect balance of savoury, cheesy goodness and fresh crunch. The yoghurt sauce was a genius touch, cutting through the richness and adding a refreshing tang. It sorted me right out, giving me the energy, I needed for the dance floor that was calling my name.

Losing Yourself to the Beat

And what a dance floor it was. It wasn't a formal, cordoned-off area, but rather the central space in the cafe that had organically been claimed by the music. As the night wore on, more and more people were drawn from their seats, pulled in by the infectious rhythms.

The DJ was a master, reading the room perfectly. The music flowed from reggae classics that had everyone singing along to upbeat dance tracks that made it impossible to stand still. It was a joyous, uninhibited scene. Strangers were dancing together, laughing, their shared language simply the beat and the enormous grins on their faces. There’s a special kind of magic in those moments when you’re travelling. You’re in a room full of people from every corner of the globe, you don’t know their names or their stories, but for a few hours, you’re all connected by the same rhythm.

I danced for what felt like hours, shedding any leftover tiredness from the day. The passionfruit mojito had been replaced by a classic one, and the world outside of Cafe One Love just melted away. It was just about the music, the movement, and the sheer, unadulterated fun of it all. This was the wildcard I hadn’t expected from sleepy Ella – a vibrant, pulsating party that felt both spontaneous and absolutely essential.

If you find yourself in Ella, do all the hikes and see all the views. But when evening comes, listen for the music. If you’re lucky, it might just lead you to Cafe One Love. Go in, grab a mojito, and let the night take you. Some of the best travel memories aren't planned in a guidebook; they're found in the unexpected joy of a Wednesday night dance party in the Sri Lankan hills.